about me
Emily in Peru
In June 2021, I was approached about a job in Lima, Peru. Before I'd even had the initial chat with the recruiter, my mouth was watering and I was already planning which foods to try. Luckily I got the job, and in January 2022 I moved to Lima :)
Emily In Paris had come out just before I moved to Peru, and I'd feverishly watched it along with many others. Therefore, when I started thinking about documenting my experience, 'Emily in Peru' immediately came to mind. Hopefully I'm not quite as cringey as Emily Cooper ;0
I moved to Lima single and ready to mingle, signed up to the usual dating apps, and went on my merry way. Then, just one month after moving across the world, I met an amazing man and in Feb 2024, we married here in Lima :)
This blog is about my travels in Peru. As an expat, it has been a challenge to adapt to the new (more relaxed!) latino way of living, and many logistical nightmares. My husband is very proud of his country and is the best tour guide around. We often take road trips, going from 32C to 1C, from the desert at sea level toa 3,500masl jungle, eating a 3 sol papa rellena in the street, to a $150 fancy fusion dinner, all in a matter of hours.
Peru is a county of extremes and I love it.
Follow me on Instagram @emily_inperu
lima beauty spots
Huaraz
Pozuzo
keeping fit in lima
Tarma
Paracas
Tarma
southern beaches
Emily in Peru
Lima Intro
Eating is one of my favourite hobbies, and it's fair to say that I spend a hefty proportion of my salary on eating out, so for my first post, I've put together a list of some of my favourite places to eat in Lima.
Most blogs/posts about Lima's food scene focus on the big hitters in the World's Top 50 rankings: Central, Maido, Mayta etc. Yes, they're great (more on that another time), but they are very much one-off visit restaurants, especially if you're just passing through Lima, therefore this post is about some of the more accessible restaurants.
Note- Peruvian restaurants/food outlets generally have different presentation and hygiene standards than those of Western countries. What may not look particularly hygienic/welcoming/well lit, may well have some of the tastiest food you've ever tried. Whilst I'm not actively encouraging anyone to try to get food poisoning, put yourself out of your comfort zone, take some probiotics and get stuck in!
Follow me on Instagram @emily_inperu
HOMe
where: Los Parientes,miraflores
Lima- some of my favourite foods
where: los parientes,miraflores
Top dish: Estiradito Macedonio
This dish is 'designed' at the table and includes crispy chicharron (calamari), chunks of fresh fish, combined with 5 different types of leche de tigre, and served with crispy & chewy corn fritters (tortitas) and a fresh chalaquita salsa.A visual and taste sensation!
The deserts- I'm not a desert person however, the small but powerful chocolate bar with raspberries was delicious! Not too big, but rich and perfect to finish off a savoury meal. Wash it down with a perfectly chilled espresso/martini :)
Vibe: Classy with interesting vintage-y décor; you feel like you're in safe hands.
where:Maketto, Miraflores
Top dishes: Tostada XO (Tuna tacos), Ceviche Marciano
The ceviche is made with an eye-popping basil scented leche de tigre (-the sauce that 'cooks' the fish) and served with crunchy fried patacones. Usually I lean towards a classic ceviche (it always delivers), but this variation was deliciously punchy, and didn’t divert from the essence of the original classic.
Vibe: 'Asian soul street food' - market vibes with neon lights and lanterns.
USP: the tuna tacos are topped with little chunks of dried seasoned conchas (scallops) - I've never had this before and it really made the dish.
A couple of my favourite places/foods in Lima:
where: main Street in Gamarra (textile 'city' in La Victoria, 20mins from Miraflores)
top (only) dish: Papa rellena (stuffed potato).
The best way I can describe it is like an inverse shepherd's pie, mixed with raisins/dates and a boiled egg, which is then deep fried in a potato shape. Served with a spicy green sauce and salsa criolla. I bought this from a tiny old lady in the street for 3 soles (approx $0.80).
Vibe: Hectic- find a space to stand in the busy street
USP: Despite having at least 1no papa rellena every week, this was my first and still my favourite ever!
HOMe
Beauty
There are 1000's of beauty salons in Lima, you will never be stuck in a beauty emergency. However, the standards are quite different to those in Europe and the US. Products tend to not be of a high quality eg wax or nail polish (although the many quality salons offer OPI etc). some services may not be offered upfront/or done fully, such as intimate bikini waxing.This is just due to Peru being a pretty conservative country and probably some awkwarndess if theres a language barrier too. If there’s something you want that hasn’t been offered or done properly, then just ask- people are very happy to help and your repeat custom is important to them
Note- if you dont speak much/any spanish, then I'd suggest googling in advance (or having a translator app handy),any words that you might need for such an occasion. I've been caught in a (funny) awkward situation before when I had no idea how to say ask if she was going to wax EVERYTHING in/around my bikini line... Lots of embarrassing hand gestures ensued…..
As with most things in Peru, beauty appointments can be easily booked via whatsapp.
facials
Offering Guinot treatments, Yaku is a luxurious experience which delivers real results. I love the bio-lifting ‘venom’ facial, which includes glass cryo-balls to really depuff those bags :)
Harmony offers a japanese kobido massage, which blew my mind the first time i had it! Expect your face to be pummeled, leaving you radiant, tight and energised!
Medi-spa. I used to have a facial here every 2/3 weeks as they had an excellent offer of 2x deep cleaning facials for 199 soles (approx $50), which included: steaming, extraction, infrared light, and collagen mask.
TBC- i’m very excited to try this salon next week as i’ve seen people have great results with their exfoliating peels. They also offer microblading.
Waxing & brows
One of the few salons that uses hot wax (starpil) for the bikini area. Jenifer’s service is Fast, reliable and super clean. i won’t go anywhere else now!
Full range of waxing and brow/lash treatments available.
threading brows is not common in peru, so once i found Adriana, i haven’t let her go! She will travel to your home/workplace, and loves to practive her english.
Full range of waxing and brow/lash treatments available. I love her brow lamination and threading.
Nails
I’ve tried over 15 nail salons in lima and this branch of Oh Nails wins hand down for best service. I usually have a gel manicure with Roosmery or Yuli, but all the ladies are excellent. The pedicure with fresh orange is also a treat.
my friends who get nail extensions and acrylics highly recommend this place.Spa Bar are highly atuned to the gringa market and have great attention to detail, but don’t expect it to be quick! Complimentary beverage per treatment.
Cosmetic treatments
Aquamed offer a full range of cosmetic treatments incuding advanced invasive facials, and all the usual fillers, cellulite treatMENTS etc. I’ve had botox here several times and it has always been to a very high standard.
Massages
Diana offers a different ‘themed’ massage each month, last month’s involved listening to the sound of the ocean via a giant conch shell mid-massage! it was lovely. She massages and stretches you in ways i didn’t think possible. Shes also highly skilled at facial (kobido) massage)- make sure you tell her that you want this included when you book. Her prices are also excellent (approx $20 for 1.5hrs)
Conveniently located in central miraflores, ask for a ‘descontracturante’ (deep tissue) massage with Julyza.
HOMe
where: Los Parientes,miraflores
my marriage story
British girl meets peruvian boy
I moved to Lima, Peru for work in January 2022, and met Jose, my now husband, for the first time on March 14th. Much like Peru itself, Jose was (is) intoxicating, with enough energy and passion to fuel a flight to the moon. I fell in love quickly, with both him and his country.
In October 2023 we got engaged in the small town of Vichayito in northern Peru, after a morning spent getting splashed by the migrating humpback whales breaching just metres from us. At one point during the boat trip, we'd been surrounded by hundreds of flying pelicans, jumping dolphins, and a mother and baby whale competing for the best fish- it was truly spectacular.
Six months later, we married in a beautiful venue on a pier jutting into the pacific ocean in Lima.
where: Los Parientes,miraflores
**A Couple of 'fun' facts to set the scene about getting married in Peru**
If you’re a Peruvian/European couple and you’d like help with applying for marriage in Peru, or for anything else related to navigating marriage or organising your wedding as a foreigner in peru, then please get in touch via my IG pages @emily_inperu or @gettingmarriedinperu